Cordoba

The drive from Granada to Cordoba was through the countryside.  We passed hill after hill of Olive tree fields as far as the eye could see.  It was pretty cool.  And then we would come across a little white washed town like the one below and it almost always had a castle of some sort up on a hill.  It was a fun drive! 
We made a detour in Andujar which is a little town just outside Cordoba.  Jared served there during his mission and actually was one of the two first missionaries to ever serve in that city.  A lot of the people were curious to hear what they believed, but not necessarily to join our church.  It was a great experience for Jared.  He held the first sacrament meeting in Andujar that ever was and was there to administer the sacrament.  We couldn’t find his old apartment or the little shop underneath where he would tease a local women who owned the shop Manoli, but we did find the hotel where they held the first sacrament meeting.  It was good for the kids to see exactly where this was so that when he tells these stories again, they will remember going there. 
This was one of the cute towns we passed by on the way to Cordoba. 
After seeing the cute outside wall of the old city of Cordoba, I was instantly attracted to this quaint Spanish town.  Jared served here for 4 months I think.   While we waited for our sandwiches to be fixed up, all the school children were getting out and walking home.  Almost everyone of them had a school uniform on and they were so adorable.  I asked them if I could take their photographs.  They were a little shy for me and the parents wanted to know what I was going to do with the photographs.     
First stop in Cordoba was Pic Anton Sandwich Shop. Jared loved these sandwiches on his mission and was thrilled that they were still there and that the sandwiches were just as he remembered. Picanton has upgraded its shop from when Jared was here. It used to literally be a hole in the wall joint where you ordered outside and got your sandwich to eat in the street. They now have a small counter and a few bar stools. To say we liked the sandwiches were an understatement!  WE LOVED THEM!  Jared was in heaven.  Up above Cole and Jake are playing there whistle flutes they got in Granada.  Boy were they loud and did the boys love to play them! 

They are similar to the other Spanish tortilla sandwiches we have eaten here, but they add ham (Spaniards are WAY into ham), cheese, tomatoes, roasted green peppers and the secret ingredient: Mal Leche. It translates to bad milk, but more correctly it is like a spicy mayo.  You can get it in varying degrees of hot! 
We walked back out the old city gate and sat on the benches that Jared used to sit and eat his sandwiches as a missionary.  It was such a fun lunch for our whole family.  As soon as we were done eating Carter, Hanna, Jared and me all said “let’s come back for dinner!”
 
So the other reason people come to Cordoba (or shall I say the real reason people come to Cordoba is not for sandwiches).  Most people come to see La Mezquita.  It is a massive former mosque-now with a 16th century church rising up from the middle-that was once the heart of a cultural capital for the Western Islam people that rivaled Baghdad and Istanbul.  It is remarkably well preserved so one can visualize Islamic Cordoba in its 10th century prime.  (Rick Steve’s, Spain pg. 587)
It also has a Patio de los Naranjos similar to Sevilla’s Cathedral.  When this was a mosque the faithful would gather in the courtyard to perform ablution-ritual washing before prayer, as directed by Muslim law. 
 

Once inside we were amazed at all the double pillars and the Mosque’s Architecture.  These columns date from 786.  There are 850 columns throughout the mosque topped with double arches.  A round Romanesque arch above a Visigothic horseshoe arch all made from alternating red brick and white stone.  The columns were recycled from ancient roman ruins and conquered Visigothic churches.  (Arabs excelled at absorbing the technology and the building materials of the people they conquered).  The double arches add extra bracing and were needed to support such a tall ceiling with thin columns.   (Rick Steve’s)
   
La Mezquita was very unique and fascinating.  I don’t know much about Muslim Mosques so it was very interesting to read and learn more while we walked around and then teach the kids.  The Mihrab below is the equivalent to a church’s high altar.  It is found in all Mosques.  It is a decorated “niche” like a small room, with a golden arch entrance.  During a service, the imam (prayer leader), would stand here to read scripture and give sermons.  He spoke loudly into the niche his back to the assembled crowd, and the architecture worked to amplify his voice for all to hear.  This particular one was built in Cordoba’s Islamic prime reflecting the wealth that they enjoyed at that time.  
The others assembled would worship on the ground by rocking forward to touch their heads to the ground and saying “Allahu Akbar, La illa a il Allah, Muhammad razul Allah”-or “Allah is great, there is no god but Allah, and Huhammad is his prophet.”
 
Where the people are standing is where the multitude started that had gathered to worship and pray.  20,000 people could pray here at a time and I’m sure filled the entire Mosque. 


In 1236 the city was conquered and the Mosque turned into a church, but left pretty much unchanged at that time.  In 1523, Cordoba’s bishop proposed building this grand church in the Mezquita’s center.  The town council opposed it but King Charles V ordered it done.  According to legend, when the king saw the final product, he declared that they’d destroyed something unique to build something ordinary.  However in a positive light, Rick Steve points out that it would have been easier for the Christian builders to destroy the mosque, but they respected its beauty and built their church into it.  It is really interesting to be sitting in the Christian Church area and then gaze around to see the Islamic arches and Mosque features all around you.  It is very unique.  You can see the arches in the picture below while in the middle Christian area. 
 
We were all getting a little haggard at this point after 8 days of sight seeing.  I’m the only one showing it however.  Jared’s face looked like mine only he’s behind the camera!  The kids did well keeping up our crazy pace and were rewarded several times throughout the trip with park time, ice-cream, and souvenirs.  You can see Cole’s camera on Josh’s neck and Jake’s whistle in his hand. 
Once back out in the light of day we walked on the New bridge and around La Mezquita to see a few more sights.   And yes…..Jared, Carter, and Hanna came back for more sandwiches from PicAnton for dinner:) 
The Roman bridge is new and modern looking, but it does provide some great views back on La Mezquita.  After playing at a nearby park for 45 minutes, we called it a day!