April 06, 2012

Semana Santa or Holy Week in Spain

We just spent our entire Spring Break in Southern Spain touring Jared’s mission field and learning about Spanish traditions and way of life.  We have been planning on this pretty much since we landed on the European Continent 10 months ago!  Jared was our awesome trip planner and translator for the 9 days. He has been planning and making arrangements since Christmas.  He had everything planned perfectly, and we had a wonderful time.   It was an eventful, amazing 9 days for our family, 7 of which we got to share with the Johnsons whom we treasure as very close friends.  We flew into Malaga on late Friday night.  It took a while to get our luggage and rental vans and then we hit the downtown area of Malaga to see a “Procession” which only happens one week every year in Spain.  We were there right at the tail end of the week and felt really lucky that we could see this once a year tradition that is such a part of Spanish culture.  IMG_7726 copyIMG_7728 copyIMG_7730 copyI’ve heard Jared talk about “Semana Santa” several times over the years and although I’ve now read a little about it, it seems like a very mysterious and cult-like religious ceremony to me. It is kind of a way they scare people into believing the catholic traditions, I think. Here are a few details I borrowed from a website about Spain:
While Semana Santa is a national tradition throughout Spain, the "Andalucians" arguably "feel" the week more than other regions of Spain. Throughout seven days, Andalucia is surrounded by a spiritual halo. Semana Santa is a tradition which is repeated year after year; a time when the devout and curious join together to participate in the procession and converge on the streets and squares which take on the ambience and mystique of an open air temple.
The skill and expertise behind the parades rest with the religious fraternities and brotherhoods. They have the responsibility of maintaining the statues as well as coordinating the penitents and musicians. Sometimes up to two thousand members of a brotherhood take part, some carry candles, rods or banners depending on their level of seniority. The most senior is the president who carries a golden rod.
The "costaleros" who carry the weight of the floats and their sculptured representations of the biblical scene are directed by the overseer or head of the group who ensure that the float is carried with maximum seriousness, grace and tradition. To be able to survive the long hours and distance carrying the heavy "thrones" the costaleros have a cushion, known as the costal, which prevents the direct contact of the wood rubbing against the skin. The thrones are followed by "nazarenos" dressed in tunics, hoods and masks and women dressed in traditional costume.
The entire scene is alive with color and sound, thanks to the polychromatic variety of tunics, hoods, ensigns and banners. Emotions are stirred by the slow rythmic beating of the drums and processional marches and the swaying paces of the bearers.
Even if you are not part of their religion, it is difficult not to be riveted when the floats come by, the atmosphere changes from a party parade to a reverent hush over the crowd. For some of the Spaniards this week represents a fun filled fiesta time, for others a week of ritual and reflection. Without a doubt, Holy Week in Andalucia is a tradition that is an integral part of the culture and appropriately reflects the spirit of the people. 
It was definitely more of a people watching parade for us and a chance to learn about different ways people express their religious beliefs. 
Not sure if Hanna is awake or asleep and if Megan is shocked or yawning…..it was past midnight at this point and we still needed to drive over an hour to reach our rental house. Needless to say the children were starting to fall apart at this point. We joked that they were going to wake up with bad dreams of the religious Klu, Klux, Klan dressed in black hovering over them. Thankfully they didn’t however:)IMG_7731 copyEven children were in this procession…..I felt a little bad for them because apparently they can be really long like hours and hours long.  IMG_7733 copyAnd they’re coming……..back and forth these men swayed carrying this giant float (with a statue of Jesus laying on top) held up be 50-60 men in perfect rhythm swaying back and forth.  We were on the front row at this point and almost in the street.  They were so close to us that their stoic faces were right in ours looking at us.  I have to admit, it was a little dark feeling for me and I was happy when they were past us.  Jared of course is used to it and it didn’t bother him at all.  The kids were kind of dumbfounded by it all.  IMG_7740 copyIMG_7741 copyIMG_7742 copyIMG_7744 copyAs we were leaving ,this twice as tall totally decked out ornate float came by lit with billions of candles and almost two stories high.  I ran back for a few pictures.  Josh turned to Jared and said, “ooooh look at the queen, to which Jared corrected him and said, no, that is the mother of Jesus, Mary.  Then Josh said, but why does she have more candles then Jesus”?  Good question little man.  IMG_7754 copyI’m glad we just happened to be there during this week.  It WAS DEFINITELY something to see!!

2 comments:

Jackson Family said...

weird, but definitely looks cool to experience--at least once

The Seaquist Family said...

Interesting. I can't wait to hear about the rest of your trip. What a great experience to see where your husband served his mission. So cool!